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Wine farm and country hotel (2/2001 - VIP International
traveller)
Our favourite insider's secret comes in the form of an African
farm…, an idyllic wine estate at the foot of the picturesque
Drakensberg Mountains, near Paarl – a town named after massive
round granite boulders, which rise behind it, and glisten like
pearls when the sun comes through after a bout of rain.
While we are on the topic of jewels, we cannot help but mention
this lovingly restored manor, originally built in the classic
Cape-Dutch style in 1692. It was first owned by a Frenchman,
Jean du Buis, one of approximately Huguenots to arrive at the
Cape as religious refugees in 1688.
Having settled in the richly historic triangle between Paarl,
Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, their expertise significantly
contributed to the fact that South Africa's finest grapes ripen
here today.
German-born Fred Uhlendorff is the first non-Huguenot to own
this charmingly romantic and unique estate in over 300 years.
The manor appears before us, snow white, with a thatched roof,
glazed bar windows and elegantly curved gables, surrounded by
luscious green lawn and jacaranda trees in full bloom. It wasn't
always like this.
When he acquired the estate in 1996, the homestead and its vineyards
were in a desolate condition. But all Fred Uhlendorff saw, was
the hidden treasure he had been in search of. He and his partner,
an expert in the hotel trade, had a vision of creating a small
hotel – but not just any old hotel. It was to be something very
special. And there can be no question that they have succeeded.
A tour of the establishment's ten suites is almost like a journey
back in time. Each room has its own distinctive atmosphere –
is a perfectly harmonious composition creatively furnished with
valuable antiques, which Fred Uhlendorff has collected from
all around the world. But more on that later.
We find art deco beds, painted steel beds from turn of the century
Vienna as well as an extremely high, old English bed, all dressed
with fine down comforters and gorgeous, white lace linens. Engraved
Arabian brass tables, enormous, venerable, colonial-style mirrored
travel cases, vanity cases that once belonged to classic movie
stars and travellers of the century before last stand beside
old bank safes reminiscent of the wild west.
Modern comforts such as telephone and television blend harmoniously
with this classic décor, resulting in a very unique ambience.
Fred Uhlendorff is the Palmiet Valley's creative designer –
a bundle of energy with ever-new ideas, dreams and plans. He
rarely relaxes himself – the well-being of his guests, however,
is his highest priority.
Far from the ordinary Nescafé instant coffee bags, my lovingly
assembled morning basket contains not only an assortment of
teas, breakfast biscuits and a water cooker, but also a coffee
maker and real ground beans.
On cool evenings I am warmed by a little glass of port, poured
form a beautifully decorative carafe, and a heatable mattress.
When I lift the lid of my toilet, I find rose petals floating
in the bowl – now, this is what I am tempted to call a novel
idea. Nothing here is boringly ordinary – everything is subtly
refined. An ocean of camellias surrounds the sparkling blue
pool in a scented splendour of red and white.
My gaze falls upon the gentle slope of the valley, as the sun
shines through the grape vines in golden rays. The garden is
filled with Mediterranean smells, a breeze brings on the fragrance
of wine in the making. „Never does the future seem as rosy“,
wrote Alexandre Dumas, „as it is seen through a glass of fine
Chambertin.“ Chambertin might not be grown here, but there is
an abundance of equally delectable vintages to choose from –
including Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
Palmiet Valley plans to bottle its first red wines in 2003.
Good things tend to take their own sweet time. It takes four
years from planting to the very first harvest.
Twilight finds us sitting in the generous gardens, a glass of
wine in hand, and enjoying the mystical spectacle of a blazing
red evening sunset against the impressively towering Drakensberg
Mountains. This can easily be called a little piece of paradise.
We are transported back to the 18th century for dinner. The
center of the beautifully furnished, historic dining room is
made up of a large mahogany table, decked in elegant crystal,
shining silverware and valuable Ainsley porcelain. It is lavishly
strewn with rose petals, which give off a delightful pastel
shimmer by candle light.
Fred Uhlendorff’s meals resemble a fascinating stage set, enchanting
and almost surreal. Giselle, the young cook, serves a sophisticatedly
simple fare made of the freshest ingredients, with a touch of
the inimitable „Cape Malay“ spices endemic to Southern Africa,
to the gentle tones of classic music. Absolutely delicious.
After our meal, we spend a long time seated at the table with
Fred Uhlendorff, a man who was originally at home in the world
of big business. His life sounds like a novel.
He set off to Africa straight after he finished studying mathematics
and founded a consulting agency in Liberia. It turned out that
he had hit upon the right place and the right time for his venture
and it was a huge success, both business wise and financially.
But he was working around the clock. His marriage failed, and
over the years doubts started to surface – he began to question
the meaning of life.
Deciding to withdraw from the business world, he had a 22 meter
yacht built in New York and sailed the earth for seven years.
This not only gave him ample time for thought, but also allowed
him to pursue his hobby of collecting antiques. He discovered
gorgeous pieces all over the world, which he sent for storage
in a container to Germany. Not that he had any idea that his
present-day his guests would one day be enjoying them.
After his yacht – and therefore his home – was stolen, he was
forced to regroup. Germany did not hold him captive long, as
he had long since lost his heart to the black continent. And
he found the place where he wanted to spend his life in the
Cape region of southern Africa.
Many only dream of escaping their current lives and starting
afresh somewhere new – he realized his dream and became successful,
as always, a farmer, wine grower and hotel proprietor. What
a life!
Breakfast the next morning is no less perfect, held beneath
ancient, picturesque oak trees in front of the manor. Flower
petals once again grace the white table cloth, upon which the
sun draws radiant patterns, as it filters through the leaves.
Birds chirp and the countless flowering blossoms scent the morning
air. There is a selection of delicious home-made jams – of guava,
for instance grown on the farm's own orchard, of pomegranate
and of grape. Add freshly pressed guava juice, which is enough
to have any connoisseur heaving a sigh of unadulterated pleasure.
Fred has even thought of a plug for the toaster - discreetly
hidden behind one of the trees. Unbelievable.
Relaxing and unforgettable times at the Palmiet Valley are not
only ensured by the highlights set by exceptional cuisine, a
very special ambience of well-being, or the fact that one is
visiting a unique wine estate, the sense of peace one finds
here, or the attentive and personal service – there is also
a wide range of recreational activities to choose from.
The nearest golf course, for instance, is a mere five minutes
away. And Cape Town, a riveting, vibrating metropolis, with
all of its beaches, famous Table Mountain, a large number of
cultural events, and its great many shopping temptations, can
be reached in a mere half an hour.
Small wonder that the famous television gourmet chef, Johannes
Lafer, and Howard Carpendale, among others, have already chosen
to shoot their shows on this enchanting location, which offers
a blend of Mediterranean and European ambience with a distinctly
African flair. A very special African farm. |
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